Yes guys, it’s finally here. This time I wrote my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. Jordan has been the country I’ve wanted to go to for ages. Why? It’s a good question, as a long time I knew nothing about Jordan besides Petra. And boy, I missed out in those years that I didn’t know anything else. I perfectly described what I felt when traveling through the country for 11 days in another article. But in short. It wasn’t that bad. That’s why writing my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female is something I hope you will find useful.
And if not, at least I enjoyed writing my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. In the hope that some people will actually find my information useful.
In fact, it was absolutely unreal, insane, mesmerizing and twenty thousand other words that I don’t know in English so I will continue in Dutch with them for a second. So where was I? Right. De tering dat was vet. Some people have asked me about my itinerary a few times so I decided to be kind and give you guys what you want. A little over 4,5 months after the ending of my trip to Jordan, I finally write this post on my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. Ah well, it’s still here right? No problem.
Also, yes, some of these things are quite expensive because of the fact that i had a short period of time and couldn’t miss a few local bus ride. If you happen to have for example three to four weeks (DREAM!!) then you have to take the minivans as that will save you a whole lot of money since renting a car isn’t that cheap either. Around 500 dollars a week, however if you ride with a full car that’s actually perfectly fine.
The first tip of the day (it’s free, I’m too awesome I know) is the Jordan Pass. I know many people have said shitty things about it, but it has saved me, and will save you (that’s something we all want) a whole lot of money. I bought the one of 80 Jordanian Dinars, which is a lot of money, I know. However, you should remember that the 40 JD visa price is included, Petra for three days, entrance to the Roman ruins of Jerash, Amman citadel and roman theater, Roman ruins in Umm Qais, the castle of Aljoun, entrance for Wadi Rum and plenty of more. The price to enter into Petra for three days alone is al 50 JD for one day, 55 JD for two days and 60JD for three days.
Lets start with my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female.
As I arrived, in the middle of the night and the hotel (Nishan Hotel, 75JD for 2 nights) had arranged a cab for me. As so I thought, however something went wrong so I took a cab (it cost me 20 JD) towards the hotel myself, had a conversation with one of the nicest cabdrivers ever even though we didn’t speak each other languages and felt famous because a kid wanted a selfie. And the hotel gave me a free upgrade, so I had a huge bed with plenty of pillows. I’m a pillows girl. Anyway, I already booked the hotel through booking.com beforehand, as I wanted to have a relaxing first arrival. The hotel was a great pick, if I may say so myself.
Since I arrived in Jordan in the middle of the night, it was already day 2 of my travels. My 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female is starting to begin with the adventures. However it was my official first day in the country. As I slept for around 1,5 hour, I was picked up by a driver from localtrips.net for a trip to Umm Qais, Aljoun and Jerash. I must admit I’m incredibly happy I booked this first day through this company. There was perfect contact and the evening before the trip I got a message of who my driver would be for the day.
The driver was incredibly nice, as almost all Jordanians I’ve met so far and we seriously shared a lot of laughs. He also shared his falafel with me, as he ‘forced’ me to eat. Who am I kidding? Food? When there’s food, I am there as well. However, he asked me why I wasn’t eating of the falafel and bread, and I really didn’t see this coming. I answered with ‘because you bought it and you should eat the food’. Apparently that’s not how it works in Jordan and he said it was bought for both of us, so I slowly started making my way through the pile of falafel.
Again, if I had more time I would’ve taken a minivan, however I did not have this. If you are able to make the entire car filled it’s still the same amount of money, so I would suggest you to do this. It depends which itinerary you choose but a full day, as in a really full day I believe I was home (aka hotelroom) at 7 or 8. And I got picked up at 7:30. I paid 90JD.
The drive was a few hours to Umm Qais already, however it was worth it. As I entered the Roman ruins it was completely deserted. This is where you really start feeling the impact of the unstable region on tourism, however Jordan is completely safe. As I explored it further there were an endless amount of graves, roman pillars and breathtaking views into the valley as Umm Qais is located on the top of a hill (mountain for us Duchies). I sat there, just looking and thinking how incredible it is that I right now am in Jordan. I spent around 1 hour here.
The dream destination I’ve wanted to visit for years. And it was finally there. You know how that feeling is when you finally visited one country you’ve been seeing in your dreams more often than you want. As time started passing by the first other visitors came onto the grounds of the lost empire. But still, I felt like it was a bit odd that there was barely anyone there, especially as it felt really safe there.
As we continued our little road trip and this part of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female, we started heading towards the old castle of Aljoun, which was pretty spectacular as well. As we arrived I got out of the car when my driver went for a quick prayer to the mosque nearby and we parted our ways. I walked towards the castle and seeing it in front of you is something special. It is big, but it still looks like it was made a few decades ago. Until you enter, but even there, you see that it was incredibly well built for the period it was made and the views from the top of the castle is something really special. The castle is built on top of another hill that has incredible views all across the region. I spend around 1,5 hour in the castle.
Then it was time to get some food at a local place, which turned into a little tourism hub. However, the food still was great and because I was there with the local driver it was even more fun. As I explored the food choices I had the best lemon-mint juice brought towards the table. The waiters told me I had to try this, and this, this, this, that, oh and that. And my plate was filled. I must admit it made it easy, as there were so many choices.
After lunch we made our way towards Jerash. And Jerash is something else. I liked all the places I went to on this day, however Jerash truly stood out for me. As soon as you enter through the gates you will feel like you’re making your way through the Roman Empire. You will imagine a city, this enormous, filled with people. The city must’ve been incredible back in the days, but I still cannot get over the fact how this was built. Pillars that are twenty times bigger and taller than a person, without the technology that we use nowadays.
The Romans were truly an inventive bunch of people. As you walk through the old city, you will see the ‘new’ city of Jerash located behind it. Can you imagine living there and waking up to a view of one of the greatest leftovers of Roman history each day? Neither can I. But it must be unreal. This is also the place where I spent most hours, I believe I walked around here for 2,5 hours. And it is worth it.
As time passed by I saw locals riding their horses through the sand, little cats all across the site and experienced a little girl standing in front of my face. What is so special about that you ask me? Well, nothing, besides the fact that she was holding a cellphone and took a photo. Of me. With the sound on. And had no shame. It was weird. That’s all I can say. And I was shocked.
I started making my way back towards the car and we started heading back to the hotel where I collapsed after the little bit of sleep and a long, but incredible day.
On this day I changed from a hotel to a hostel. As I ordered an Uber (that is super cheap here, cost me approximately 2JD) towards Jordan Tower Hostel (9JD a night) I had planned to meet up with my friend in Amman, called Sara. As I settled down in the hostel, I changed clothes and made my way down to explore the markets around the hostel as I didn’t meet up with her just yet. I started exploring the new smells, different vegetables and other spices.
The market was endless, truly endless. You will see entire families enjoying their few hours at the market before heading their way out, out into the even busier streets of Amman. I started heading my way towards my friend who was waiting for me, on top of a hill. She first was waiting on the bottom but didn’t see me there yet, so I was slowly walking my way up the hill, sweating like a pig before we spotted each other. My 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female: sweating, eating and walking.
We headed towards a bar somewhere in Amman where we decided to test out some Jordanian beers. I know. I had no idea they were any good, but they were so I definitely recommend you to try Jordanian beers. She needed to go to an event a bit later and asked me to follow along. So before I knew it, I was sitting at an event, in Amman. Trying to laugh at the jokes that were told, while I didn’t speak, and still don’t speak any, Arabic. It must’ve been a sight to see. A blonde, pale girl laughing two minutes after everyone else was laughing.
On my final day in Amman I decided to explore the city even better. I headed towards the Roman theater. Walked towards the top, before staring down. It was actually pretty, fucking high. And those ‘stairs’ weren’t the best to walk on, I mean that makes sense as it’s from the Roman times. The view was once again not too bad at all. You could see the Amman citadel on top of the hill. And it seems so close then.
Little did I know when I started walking my way towards the citadel, after my second uber cancelled on me after they first told me they were on their way, that is a tad further than I thought. But I actually have to thank those basterds for not pick me up as walking up and down this road has to be one of the best things I did in Amman. The views were incredible, and as the sun started setting Amman citadel was closing but the views were amazing as on this road as from the citadel.
A visit to Amman citadel is also something I highly recommend you to do. It’s unreal to walk around there. Just another dreamy feeling as the sun slowly goes down it leaves it mark on the citadel and on the houses in Amman. I ate at local shops. Grabbed some food here and there and left satisfied. If you’re wondering where you should eat, if it’s busy (meaning: filled with locals) you know it’s a good place.
I walked through the city, explored the mosques, chilled in a park and enjoyed mansaf (a local dish) and, of course, rainbowstreet. Amman truly has a lot to offer, I will be publishing a ’23 things to do in Amman’ post soon, so stay tuned. But for now, let’s continue with my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female.
This was the day I went to see Petra. Finally, after all those years of dreaming I was able to explore it myself. I took the early morning Jet Buss to Petra. However, because I was short on time I took the Jett buss, which is a ‘tourist’ buss and a bit more expensive. It is 10 JD to go to Petra. You can also take the minivans (ask your hotel or hostel) that are way cheaper but they do not always run. It completely depends on the bus driver and on the day. For example, I was supposed to take a minivan from Petra to Wadi rum, however it didn’t go that morning… If you have a short of tight schedule, those busses aren’t that great.
In Petra I stayed at Petra Gate Hostel (10 euros a night) and it was such a nice place to stay. Honestly, the people are incredibly friendly and try to be as helpful as they can to make sure you have a great stay and enjoy Petra the fullest.
On this day I was maybe a bit overwhelmed of Petra. I was a bit numb and I originally thought it was because I was disappointed. However it just turned out that I didn’t know how I needed to feel as it’s been a place I’ve wanted to go to for ages and I was finally there. It is an incredible place to walk around and I would definitely say you must go there for at least two days. As I do here in my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. It would be even better to go there three days so you really have all the time in the world.
On the first day I had a little of a mental breakdown, because I think it was just a lot to take in. I walked a lot and had dinner at the cave of a Bedouin family, where I also witnessed the most incredible sunset I’ve ever seen. The stars were shining so bright that it was an unreal sight. This was also the day I went to Petra by night.
So I got accompanied by a guy from the family, who took me towards the treasury where Petra by night always takes place. What I found an incredible experience is how it felt like you floated on the sand when we made our way from the cave to the treasury with the moon and stars guiding us through the valley. Even though it felt like floating I tripped twenty thousand times on rocks and almost ate another dinner, this time only existing out of sand. Good for the stomach.
As we arrived at the treasury there were cats everywhere and we drank some tea with the other locals there, before they slowly lit up the candles, which was quite cool to see. The experience Petra by night, meaning the show and lights etc., wasn’t that great in my opinion. I just thought it looked nice, but it wasn’t something spectacular. The most spectacular was walking through and from the siq and looking above you. The sky, filled with tens of thousands of stars on a clear night. Personally I didn’t think it was worth the 17 JD, however others found it magical I just didn’t feel it.
The second day to explore Petra was a bit more spectacular as this was the day I also saw the treasury from the top. Via a different way than most people see it. Meaning, make friends with the locals, as you won’t regret it. As we walked over the rocks I was suddenly not that aware of myself being afraid of heights anymore. If someone really knows the area really well it just feels great. We walked and walked, until I needed to close my eyes. I was silently freaking out. Okay, I admit. I wasn’t silent. Just imagine a shaky voice mixed with the scream of a chicken.
However, when I opened my eyes I witnessed the most beautiful thing ever. The treasury from the top, and even better, I was there all alone. It was deserted up there. Also, it was really not crowded in Petra at all. Combine the unstable region with not good informed people and you have a disaster in tourism. Later on we hiked further towards the high place of sacrifice, and headed towards a top of a hill of Wadi Musa for sunset (the village that is the closest to Petra).
Then, before I knew it, I connected with a Dutch girl who also visited Petra, and other people who lived in the little town of Wadi Musa. The world is so small. It was definitely one of the things I never thought would happen during my trip. It has to be one of the special experiences of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. I was never really solo unless I wanted to be.
We ended up going to Little Petra during the evening, even though it was closed, having locals with you opens thousands of more doors than you would think it would. We sat there talking and looking to the thousands of stars in the sky, while the lights in the small caves were suddenly lit up. One word describes it perfectly. Magical. That’s truly what it was. After that we went to a bit of desert a few kilometers away from Wadi Musa where we had a dance party in the middle of the desert. It was unreal to be honest. Music, nice people and millions of stars. I can’t think of anything better.
Also, I slept with a kitten in my neck that night. Just when you think life doesn’t get any better, there are cats.
Another day came by in my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female continued with something special. It was Wadi Rum day! I was planning on taking a minibus towards Wadi Rum, but it didn’t go. As I really had to go to Wadi Rum this day I was able to share a cab real quick to Wadi Rum village. It saved me a lot of money, luckily. But please, if you’re able to get the minibus, do it as this will save you even more (as I originally had planned…).
During this day I did the ‘full day shared jeep tour, with overnight stay’ at Bedouin Lifestyle. And it was worth it. But if I can arrange it again I would ask the Petra Gate hostel for prices as those are way better and cheaper than what I paid for it. I wouldn’t want to change what I experienced there, as the people on the tour were incredible. However, I do trust the people from Petra Gate for also choosing good people to work with. Well, we learn from mistakes. And it will cost you money, but you will learn it the hard way.
The shared jeep tour was a lot of fun. And when I say a lot, I mean a lot. I ate sand, which was definitely a highlight. But seriously, we had a great group of people. Even though the weather wasn’t that great, the tour was a lot of fun. We were driven through the desert, towards the most beautiful places. We had lunch at an even more beautiful place. They had food (duh) and something I didn’t expect. Blood- fucking-sucking flies. Really, they were freaking vampires. I’m usually really a good hunter when it comes to mosquitos and flies, I will slap them dead within a second, but these basterds are something else. And I don’t like that.
As we continued our ride it was time for something I’ve been dreaming to do for a long, very long, enormous amount of time. Sandboarding. And if you think walking up to that high dune in front of you is an easy task, forget it. You start wondering how the hell the guide is walking up there so fast while also carrying the sandboard. After 1,5 hour we reached the top. No I’m kidding, it took us like a bit over five minutes, however with every two steps you’re making, you slide one back. And have your shoes filled with sand. Tip: Don’t be stupid like me and wear your converse to the desert. It’s not a clever idea.
As I jumped into the board I headed on my way down faster than I would like, but also more stable than I expected myself to go. I aced it. And I couldn’t be more happy about it. Until another girl and I were the only ones, out of four people, that still wanted to continue. So we asked the board of another group, as they didn’t use it. It was a freshly waxed board. You and I both know what happened next. Obviously I went waaaaaay to fast. As in WAY too fast and ate sand as a second lunch.
Later on we also climbed some mountains and bridges that were terrifying for someone who is afraid of heights, however thanks to being in this group we all helped each other out and I got the best experiences.
When the hours started to pass, all of a sudden it was time to go towards the camp that was located in a pretty nice area. And they had cats. The diner was great, as was the overall atmosphere in the tents. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t that great so there wasn’t a pretty sunset nor a starry sky. It’s a good reason to go back one day. The full tour and stay were in total 65 JD.
As it was morning I was brought to Feynan ecolodge that is located in a breathtaking area (Dana Biosphere Park), where a lot of coppermines were located (they have a great trek to the mines), and it used to be a rainforest until the Roman cut down all the trees. Nowadays it’s a national park where the ecolodge is providing jobs to the Bedouin families nearby. It is fucking expensive. I need to be honest okay. It was 143 JD. A night.
However, not only did I get an upgrade, but it also felt to me like a little bit of a once in a lifetime opportunity. This was definitely one of the days I enjoyed most out of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. The place is so environmental friendly it’s mind-blowing. The bread is locally made, by women who live in a valley nearby. The food is all locally inspired, all vegetarian (I’m not a vegetarian but I can definitely appreciate some good vegetarian food) and all as fresh as possible.
The money goes back into the national park and to the community. Also there are plenty of great tours that are mostly included in the price and in the evening the place looks like a fairytale. They don’t use lights. They use candles instead. Breathtaking. Nothing less. I only stayed here for a day, because hello, bye budget. But it was well worth the stay. And the most expensive out of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female.
This day I was brought by a local driver too Muijib Chalets. And I originally wanted to go to Wadi Muijb which is located on the other end of the road but most trails were closed as it’s dangerous with the rainfall to walk through the river beddings. So I have to come back. Muijib Chalets (63JD a night) is also in front of the Dead Sea, so I obviously made a little dip in it. However, I think I would choose a nice resort or hotel next time and only go to Wadi Muijib for it’s beauty and the treks. On the way to the place the drivers little kid taught me some Arabic (I was a complete failure) and I taught the little guy some more English numbers (he completely killed it, he was so good).
This was the day of a little road trip towards Ma’In hotsprings. The hotsprings are awesome, but, note that they’re really hot (DUH). Also it was nice and relaxing and all, however I’m not sure whether I would do it again. It wasn’t that special. Not my most special adventure out of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. But it was fun as there were almost local people there. After that I headed to Madaba and back to Amman where I dumped my backpack at Jordan Tower Hotel (where I stayed earlier) and walked a final time through the city before meeting with a friend. I was walking during the evening alone through the city, and once again I felt perfectly safe.
This was, unfortunately, the day I was leaving again while pulling an all nighter and had a friend that drove me to the airport. And we’re almost at the end of my wonderful writing of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female. There is so much more to explore and I would love to go to Jordan a second time. I was leaving in the middle of the night, I didn’t even know that was a thing as it’s not allowed in The Netherlands due to the sound, and approximately three hours later I arrived in Athens for a short layover that I will tell you all about later. And it is also the end of my 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female.
My 11-day Jordan itinerary as a solo female, extra tip: Behaviour
An extra tip here when it comes to behavior and dressing properly. You will see a lot of tourists wearing shorts and tank tops in and around, for example, Petra. Just because you see plenty people wearing little clothes doesn’t mean the people like that you do that. They won’t tell you as, you are their money. In fact, I wore long trousers, a long shirt, a long blouse (it was the end of autumn), a jacket and a scarf, I got comments from the people that they really appreciated me showing appreciation to their culture.
Please be considerate. Even in big cities in Jordan (that are more progressive) you won’t walk around in a tank top, so why do you think it’s a good idea in even smaller places with a bit more conservative culture? It is not.
I will be publishing a guide on what to wear and what to take with you to Jordan pretty soon so stay tuned.
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